Nestled high in the mountains on the border of California and Nevada, there’s a striking, majestic attraction that people are flocking to—a wonder of the world, if we’re being honest. Lake Tahoe? Well, that too, but I’m specifically referring to Lisa Vanderpump’s new culinary destination: Wolf by Vanderpump.
Bravo fans have watched over the past decade as the Vanderpump hospitality empire expanded, first from one corner in West Hollywood to a slightly larger section of West Hollywood, and later to a pair of bespoke, over-the-top cocktail spots on the Las Vegas Strip. Though I’ve had hit-or-miss experiences at Lisa’s establishments in the past, I’m a proponent of “doing it for the story,” so when I was invited to check out her latest casino-adjacent venture, I promptly cleared my schedule.
Not to state the obvious, but Lake Tahoe is like… really pretty. If you’ve only seen it through the lens of a booze-soaked Vanderpump Rules cast trip, I highly recommend planning a trip. You do have to fly through the musty Reno airport to get there, but once you’re lakeside with a glass of Vanderpump Rosé in hand, the trek will be a distant memory.
But let’s talk about Wolf. The place has come a long way since Tom Sandoval was sledgehammering the walls to let his feelings out, and it’s kind of gorgeous? Lisa Vanderpump has once again collaborated with her main man Nick Alain to create a #romanticindustrial wonderland, this time infused with rustic elements that gel with the fact that it’s a five-minute walk from a ski resort. And by rustic, I mean that there are antler chandeliers and the bar is adorned with two giant stone wolves that appear to be leaping out of metal cages. Extra? Yes. But somehow, it all works.
As for the food and beverage offerings, Team Vanderpump has really stepped it up from the days of Stassi ordering her SUR goat cheese balls with a side salad. Wolf still offers LVP’s signature fried goat cheese bites, but this time they’re paired with hot honey and a cabbage and pear slaw. To describe this dish in culinary terms, it’s fucking delicious. Equally good is the herb and gruyere Wolf bread, a pull-apart delicacy paired with a duo of butters (hot honey and whipped lava salt). While the mac & cheese and double smash burger didn’t blow me away, the best thing I ate all day was the lobster ceviche crisp, which I haven’t stopped thinking about.
During my nine-drink brunch, I also tried much of Wolf’s cocktail offering, which is just as intricate as the decor. Let’s just say Jax Taylor’s refusal to muddle anything would get him fired from this place ASAP. If you need a little hair of the dog (pardon the canine pun, of which the menu has many), I recommend starting with the Pumped Up Kicks, Wolf’s signature espresso martini. What makes it signature, you ask? Well, it’s garnished with a glazed donut hole that comes perched atop a “chocolate bridge.” Is the espresso martini the new bloody mary when it comes to edible garnishes? I sort of hope so. If you’re craving something floral, go for the Giggy Tonic, a purple-hued concoction with notes of lavender, thyme, and lemon; if you’re leaning into the woodsy surroundings, the Huff & Puff is an old fashioned topped with smoke poured from a metal wolf’s mouth. By cocktail number five or six, my taste buds may not have been at their sharpest, but I really can’t say I had a bad sip or bite all day, and I took a lot of sips and bites.
I went into my Wolf experience fully prepared to be a hater if necessary, but Lisa, Nick Alain, and the entire team have really created something to howl about at Harveys Lake Tahoe. (I know, I’m so sorry.) Whether you’re considering a stay at the casino or popping over from one of the nearby ski spots, Wolf By Vanderpump was well worth the time spent at the Reno airport.
