I’m a deeply hairy girlie — there’s no point denying it. I have dark hair in more places than I’m comfortable admitting to on the internet, and bc #society, I’ve always absolutely hated it. I’ve been shaving, shaving-creaming, plucking, waxing, epilating, you name it, since I was 10 years old. And of course, my plan was always to spring for laser hair removal as soon as I could afford it.
In the meantime, there was always the at-home laser hair removal option. Some friends had tried and loved it, so I invested in a Philips Lumea machine a few years back. Unfortunately, I can’t vouch for it because I’ve been too lazy to stick to the strict schedule you’re supposed to stick to since I bought it. Oops. Thankfully, though, you don’t have to take my super unprofessional word for it because I’ve spoken to some certified experts about the benefits and downsides of at-home laser hair removal. Maybe after I write this, I’ll lift a hairy arm and actually get my $400’s worth from this lil’ machine? Debatable.
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What is at-home laser hair removal?
At-home laser hair removal is very similar to the in-office kind, but a key difference is that they don’t let you and me use the extra powerful machine they have in dermatologists’ offices and medispas. It’s done using a handheld device that looks a bit like the barcode scanners they have in the supermarket, which you drag across the areas you want to get rid of hair, pressing a button as you go to zap the hairs.
There are two kinds of at-home laser hair removal devices available: The most common is an IPL machine, and the other is a diode laser machine. “IPL devices emit broad-spectrum light to target pigment in the hair follicle. They are most effective in individuals with light skin and dark hair and are generally not recommended for those with deeper skin tones,” Kristina Collins MD, FAAD, a double board-certified dermatologist and surgeon, tells Betches. “Diode lasers use a single wavelength of light and can penetrate deeper into the follicle, making them a better option for people with more olive or brown skin tones.”
I know as a scientifically challenged girlie, all of that is a little hard for me to grasp, so Dr. Collins also put it this way: “These devices work by delivering light energy that is absorbed by the pigment in the hair, converting to heat and damaging the hair follicle,” she says. In an ideal world, this will stop the hair from growing back, at least for a while (more on that below).
Is at-home laser hair removal worth it?
Let’s say you’re willing to invest a few hundred dollars into an IPL device, and you’re pretty good at being consistent with new habits, so the strict schedule won’t be a problem for you. Then, is at-home laser hair removal the right choice for you? Let’s investigate.
First, the cons. “In general, at-home devices have lower strength levels, and this makes them safe for use at home; however, they will not likely yield as good of a result as a medical grade laser performed by a medical professional,” says celebrity aesthetician Joshua Ross, founder of SkinLab in Manhattan Beach, CA.
Also, there are a bunch of possible side effects that sound pretty nasty (but the worst of these are rare, per Mayo Clinic): “Potential side effects are burning, stinging, blistering, discoloration and lack of efficacy,” says Jennifer Gordon, MD, from Westlake Dermatology in Austin, TX. “If you have darker skin tone, do a test spot before doing a larger area.”
Another thing is that, despite what you might have heard about laser hair removal, it isn’t actually permanent — which makes it a lot of effort for not necessarily that much return. “At-home laser hair removal offers hair reduction, not true permanent hair removal,” says Dr. Collins. “Maintenance treatments are needed indefinitely to keep results. In contrast, professional treatments can achieve more permanent reduction.”
Okay, but I promise there are actually good things about at-home laser hair removal. “Obviously at-home devices can be used easily in the comfort of your home and while a little pricey, they are overall cheaper than many laser hair removal packages at offices,” says Dr. Gordon. “They are also around for maintenance, and you only have to replace them when you are done with flashes.” Even though results may not be as good as with the in-office kind, these machines are still able to reduce your hair growth so that you don’t need to shave even close to as often.
Is at-home laser hair removal right for you?
I’ve already hinted at one major problem with at-home laser hair removal for anyone who’s as lazy as I am (or, you know, has a social life or something): You have to be consistent with it, and it takes time. If you’re the kind of person who’d much rather pay a professional to get a beauty treatment over with, then you don’t need me to tell you that at-home laser hair removal isn’t gonna be your vibe.
There are also a few other things to know before you add one of these devices to cart. Your coloring is one of the most important things to consider: “The ideal candidate for at-home IPL devices has fair to light-medium skin and brown or black hair,” says Dr. Collins. “Those with olive to brown skin tones should choose diode laser devices if they attempt at-home treatments — but should ideally seek professional care.”
Unfortunately, if you have very light blonde, red, or white body hair, there’s no laser hair removal option that will work (not even professional), per Dr. Collins. At-home laser hair removal is also not suitable for those with very dark skin because it can cause burns or changes in pigmentation. However, some in-office options can work for you.
Regardless of skin tone, you can’t use at-home lasers on tattoos, spray tans, real tans, dark spots, active infections, or premalignancy or malignancy. You also can’t use them if you’re pregnant, taking photosensitizing medications, or if you suffer from epilepsy, says Dr. Gordon.
Speaking from experience, IPL can hurt a bit — especially in sensitive areas like the bikini line or the jawline — but Ross notes that the discomfort should be super manageable. If it hurts a lot, you should probably stop the treatment and consult a skin pro for guidance.
At-home laser hair removal devices can be used in most places on the face and body where there is hair (except near the eyes!!!); however, different devices have different indications, so make sure to do your research before purchasing.
How to do laser hair removal at home
Some good news! At-home laser hair removal is really simple, if time-consuming. First, you need to “prep the skin by exfoliating, shaving, and moisturizing,” says Ross. “You want to remove any dead skin cells and have a smooth skin surface.” The aesthetician’s fave exfoliating duo for pre-laser prep is the Andalou Clarifying Yuzu Grapefruit Body Wash, followed by the Clarifying Yuzu Grapefruit Body Lotion.
You should shave beforehand, but you should not wax or pluck immediately before, says Dr. Gordon. Check your device’s instructions, though, because, for example, mine says it’s okay to wax 24 hours prior to using it.
So that’s prep covered — now for the main event. “The laser is put against the skin in the area of shaved or trimmed skin, and the device is fired by the user,” explains Dr. Gordon. “That process is continued over the area of hair. Each device will have its own schedule, but one of the more common ones is twice weekly for two months and then as needed for maintenance.” Again, read the instructions before proceeding.
After the treatment, it’s a good idea to apply a gentle, fragrance-free moisturizer like the one from CeraVe or an aloe vera gel to soothe any irritation, says Dr. Collins.
The Best IPL Hair Removal Instruments
If you want a hair removal method that’s more long-lasting than shaving — but don’t mind that it’s not as effective as in-office laser hair removal — at-home laser hair removal could be a good option. But to recap, only if you have a light to medium skin tone and dark hair and are willing to stick to your device’s schedule consistently.
In that case, here are a few great options for effective devices, as Dr. Collins and Ross recommended.
Smoothskin Pure Fit IPL Device
“This is a great option for ease of use, and it also has an automatic skin tone sensor, which will prevent the device from flashing if the skin tone is too dark,” says Ross.
Nood The Flasher 2.0
“This option is a really great value in terms of cost, and it also comes with a warranty which will replace the device if there are any issues with it,” says Ross. Also, it has a funny name. Hehe.
Braun IPL Hair Removal with Silk-expert Pro
Both Ross and Dr. Collins recommended this one. “This option is really great for sensitive skin and has a very short treatment time, making it quick and easy,” says Ross.
Tria Beauty Hair Removal Laser 4X
This is a solid diode laser option recommended by Dr. Collins, making it a good option for those with olive to brown skin.
